On the night of 1 April, Mumbai revealed her rebellious, punk-inspired side as Vivienne Westwood took over the iconic Gateway of India with her Spring Summer 2025 collection, special archive pieces, and a couture capsule. This came two years after Dior’s spectacular showcase at the same venue. Did the rains stop the audience? No. Did the bamboo-lined façade stop the spectacle? No—if anything, it deepened the story. In an era where perfection is often curated, fashion houses are shifting their gaze. An under-restoration site didn’t hold the organisers back—it turned into part of the show, making the cracks and scaffolding feel like they belonged there all along.
Fashion at the Gateway: A Tale of Two Shows
Westwood’s show was a defiant spectacle—avant-garde designs challenging conventions, set against the Gateway’s colonial-era façade.
In stark contrast, Dior’s sari-inspired skirts, silk dresses and evening coats, created in collaboration with Mumbai’s Chanakya Ateliers was all about celebrating Indian craft. Despite their differences, both brands recognised the Gateway as a symbol of Mumbai’s global identity.
Using historic landmarks as stages is a well-worn path in the fashion world. From Louis Vuitton’s dramatic show at the Louvre to Chanel’s runway amid the ruins of the Palais Galliera, designers have long sought to merge heritage with haute couture. Yet, the Gateway of India is a relatively new entrant in this exclusive club. While Dior set the precedent with their pre-fall 2023 collection, Vivienne Westwood’s recent show pushed the envelope, positioning the Gateway not just as a scenic backdrop but as an active participant in the story.
What makes the Gateway particularly compelling is its architectural grandeur intertwined with historical resonance. Designed by British architect George Wittet in the Indo-Saracenic style, it blends Hindu, Muslim and Gothic influences. Built between 1911 and 1924, the structure stands 26 meters tall, crowned by a central dome and adorned with intricate latticework (jaali) and four majestic turrets. Constructed from yellow Kharodi basalt and reinforced concrete, its warm hues reflect the coastal spirit of Mumbai.
The Gateway’s Role in Mumbai’s Urban Tapestry
Originally built to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary’s visit to India, it also marked the departure of the last British troops in 1948, symbolising the end of colonial rule. Over time, it has become a gathering space for locals and tourists alike—a democratic urban plaza where people from all walks of life come together.
Abha Narain Lambah, the principal architect leading the Gateway’s ongoing restoration, reflects on its enduring appeal: “Gateway of India is not just a building or a gate, it encapsulates the emotions of 1.4 billion Indians as a symbol of the country and of Mumbai. Through the 19th and early 20th century, Bombay was the first port of call for travellers, politicians, royalty and artists. Even today it remains the most impactful visual marker of a global India and that is the reason brands from Dior to Vivienne Westwood choose to host shows against this backdrop.”
Restoration Challenges Amid Cultural Events
Restoring such an iconic structure comes with complex challenges. The Gateway has endured the ravages of time, facing the effects of pollution, sea salt, and the pressures of urban development. The ongoing restoration project, estimated at ₹7 crore, aims to address structural vulnerabilities, clean the façade, and reinforce its foundations.
“The restoration has been very challenging,” Lambah admits. “We constantly battle the pressures of monsoons, high tides, and events”. They couldn’t begin work until after the Navy Day parade, and had to pause multiple times for other events. The scaffolding has to be taken down occasionally, and during the monsoon, high tides lash the site, making it dangerous for workers to even stand in the gusty winds.
Despite these hurdles, the project is crucial for preserving the Gateway’s architectural integrity. In addition to structural conservation, there are plans to enhance the surrounding precincts, including a new passenger jetty and terminal building, aimed at easing congestion while respecting the site’s heritage.
Amidst all of this Vivienne Westwood in partnership with the Department of Textiles, Govt. of Maharashtra and Vivz Fashion School Pvt. Ltd chose to celebrate British avant-garde fashion woven with Indian craftsmanship at this iconic location. The collection showcased Khadi, Chanderi and handwoven silks, paying tribute to India’s rich textile traditions. Andreas Kronthaler, Westwood’s creative director, highlighted the fabrics’ lightness and crispness, reflecting the deep cultural connections that influenced the collection.
The collection featured designs crafted from the finest natural hand-woven Indian silks, sourced from Aaranya, a textile initiative founded by Maharani Priyadarshini Raje Scindia of Gwalior. Aaranya collaborates with independent handloom weavers across Madhya Pradesh, ensuring that each piece is created using traditional and sustainable techniques.
Unlike many international designers who adapt ethnic textiles to Western silhouettes, Westwood designed signature styles using complex tailoring with Indian fabrics in this capsule collection. The fabrics included khadi, chanderi, muslin, muga silks, pashmina wool and black cotton—each chosen for their unique texture and cultural significance.
And as the final look crossed the runway, framed by the Gateway’s weathered arches, the scarred monument synced with Westwood’s designs: unapologetic, raw and fiercely alive. Just as Mumbai’s streets pulse with stories of rebellion and resilience, the Gateway stood not just as a witness but as a bold participant, closing the loop from history to haute couture.
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