The map of Jaipur has considerably changed over time, spilling out and beyond its boundaries from when it was called Amber. So has its skyline. But to this day, weary souls cross oceans in search of that 16th-century honey-coloured city. Behind every door of this old city lies centuries of history: most weathered with time, and others that never crossed the threshold. One of these hundreds of doors open up to a 300-year-old haveli, now a boutique stay — Surya Haveli.
Since 1947, the haveli has been inhabited by several different families before it was finally inherited by Madhuvanti Singh, daughter of Thakur Bhim Singh of Rampura. One evening, while sitting on the terrace, overlooking the dilapidated structure, Madhuvanti decided to bring back the lost glory of this haveli. The aim was “restoring this 300-year-old structure that was held together without cement and concrete into a luxury boutique hotel with all things inspired by Amer Fort and the majestic chambers of its palace,” says Madhuvanti.
With a focus on preserving its original features, Madhuvanti enlisted specialist restoration artisans from across the country. However, renovating Surya Haveli posed a significant challenge. The original building not only consisted of lime without bricks and cement but also featured a roof made of gigantic stone slabs sourced from the foothills of the surrounding Aravalli. The installation of the lift was another monumental task.
Despite the challenges, Madhuvanti’s determination and passion for restoring the haveli prevailed. And on their way the family also made some exciting discoveries. This included demolishing several partitions, which revealed the haveli’s original pillars in the dramatic central courtyard—a quintessential feature of grand family mansions that draws the eye upward to the balconies.
As the haveli took shape, Madhuvanti brought renowned Indian designer Adil Ahmad on board to collaborate on the interiors. Known for his audacious and unapologetic style, Adil had previously worked with Madhuvanti on Sonaar Haveli in Jaisalmer. Here, Adil crafted bespoke wallpapers that capture the colours and culture of Rajasthan, paired with custom-made furniture sourced locally.
Each bedroom in the haveli is named after chambers found in Amber Fort. On the second floor, there are four double rooms: Sukh Mahal, reminiscent of Amber’s pleasure palace, is adorned with Mughal motifs. Chand Bagh is decorated with floral motifs and offers views of the Akbari mosque. Kesar Bagh is named after the saffron garden once cultivated above Amber Lake, featuring a vibrant floral wallpaper depicting the saffron brought from Kashmir. Lastly, Anar Bagh features a lively wallpaper adorned with pomegranates.
The first floor has two bedrooms: Shikar Bagh (Hunting Lawns), a twin room, which is decorated with a hunters-on-horseback wallpaper. Slightly hinting towards Amber’s hunting history. Chota Bagh is the smallest room, with a queen bed and floral wallpaper.
The haveli also has a rooftop restaurant called “The Amer Sky Rooftop,” which offers vistas of the fort walls on one side and Akhbari Mosque (Jaipur’s oldest mosque) on the other. The Amber Dining Room in the closed quarters of the haveli has walls donning wallpapers with elephant motifs. This is not all. It also has Surya Chowk, a courtyard with red and white stripped marbled flooring. At any time, the space hums with the soothing sound of a fountain, perfect for relaxing after a long day touring the city.
With its walls draped in tropical green wallpaper and curtains gently diffusing the light, Dar-Bar has to be the homeliest quarters in the haveli.
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To the uninitiated, this boutique hotel might seem like a tumultuous medley of prints—prints that one would yearn to explore and decipher.
FACT FILE:
Name of the project: Surya Haveli
Designer’s Name: Adil Ahmad
Location: Jaipur
Photo courtesy: Surya Haveli